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Years ago, I started a simple family food tradition. We lived in Europe, and I wanted to share with my children a tradition from my childhood: Sunday pancakes. Not Swedish pancakes, not French crepes, but good old American-style pancakes doused with maple syrup.

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When it comes to baking, I like my desserts messy, which is to say that I like desserts that are free-form, imprecise and often referred to as “rustic.” Thank goodness for the generations of country kitchens that devised homey, family-style desserts. Often involving fruit and usually contain…